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Tapotchau, Death Valley and “Smith versus Smith”

U.S. infantrymen pause in their advance on Saipan while a flamethrower team burns out a camouflaged Japanese pillbox, June 1944. National Archives RG 208.
Four Marines of the 4th Marine Division take cover behind trees while mopping up Japanese in a cane field, 29 June 1944. Mount Tapotchau is in the background.
Marines enter the ruins of Garapan, the largest town in the Marianas, on the alert for snipers in the debris. Some buildings are still smouldering after the bombardment. Early July 1944.
Clear the smoke · 3 real photographs

Pacific Theater · Saipan · Chapter 4 of 9 · 19 June–6 July 1944

Tapotchau, Death Valley and "Smith versus Smith"

After the beaches came the mountain. Three divisions turned north across Saipan into a maze of ridges, caves and ravines. The Marines took Mount Tapotchau; the Army’s 27th Division stalled in a valley the soldiers called Death Valley, and its general was relieved in the most bitter command dispute of the Pacific war.

By Christopher Adkins · The Lake Norman Brief · 12 min read

U.S. infantrymen pause in their advance on Saipan while a flamethrower team burns out a camouflaged Japanese pillbox, June 1944. National Archives RG 208. Photo: Unknown author Unknown author · Public domain · Wikimedia Commons
Four Marines of the 4th Marine Division take cover behind trees while mopping up Japanese in a cane field, 29 June 1944. Mount Tapotchau is in the background. Photo: National Archives 176250510 official USMC photo 127-N-85677 by Cooke · Public domain · Wikimedia Commons
Marines enter the ruins of Garapan, the largest town in the Marianas, on the alert for snipers in the debris. Some buildings are still smouldering after the bombardment. Early July 1944. Photo: Signal Corps Archive from Ireland and United States · Public domain · Wikimedia Commons

By 19 June the Americans held the southern third of Saipan. Ahead of them the island narrowed and rose into a rugged spine of limestone ridges dominated by Mount Tapotchau. Saito pulled his surviving forces back to a line across the island just south of the mountain and ordered them to hold it. For the next two and a half weeks the fighting was slow, close and costly, measured in ridges and cave mouths rather than miles.

Key facts

22 Jun 1944Three divisions abreast begin the drive north
23 Jun 1944The 27th Division’s attack into Death Valley stalls
24 Jun 1944Holland Smith relieves Maj. Gen. Ralph Smith of the 27th Division
25 Jun 1944Marines of the 2nd Marine Division reach the summit of Mount Tapotchau
c. 4 Jul 1944Garapan and Tanapag harbor in American hands

Clearing the south

While the battle at sea was fought, the 4th Marine Division and the 27th Infantry Division cleared the south of the island. The 4th Division swung around the shore of Magicienne Bay. The 27th Division took over the southeast, where a pocket of Japanese troops held out on Nafutan Point. The fighting there dragged on for more than a week, partly because the 2nd Battalion of the 105th Infantry, left to finish the job with too few men, faced rugged ground and an enemy who had nowhere to go.

On the night of 26–27 June several hundred Japanese from Nafutan broke out through the American lines, overran a battery and reached Aslito airfield, where they destroyed an aircraft before being wiped out near Hill 500 by Marines of the 25th Marines. The incident added to Holland Smith’s low opinion of the 27th Division.

U.S. infantrymen pause in their advance on Saipan while a flamethrower team burns out a camouflaged Japanese pillbox, June 1944. National Archives RG 208.
U.S. infantrymen pause in their advance on Saipan while a flamethrower team burns out a camouflaged Japanese pillbox, June 1944. National Archives RG 208.Photo: Unknown author Unknown author · Public domain · Wikimedia Commons

The turn north

On 22 June Holland Smith sent three divisions north abreast. The 2nd Marine Division held the left, along the west coast toward Garapan and the slopes of Tapotchau. The 4th Marine Division held the right, on the Kagman Peninsula and the east coast. The 27th Infantry Division was moved into the centre on 23 June, between them, facing a long valley that ran north along the eastern foot of Tapotchau.

The terrain made coordination hard. The Marine divisions on the flanks advanced along the high ground and the coasts; the 27th Division in the centre had to attack up the valley floor under fire from cliffs on the left and a ridge on the right. When it fell behind, a dangerous bulge opened in the line, and the Marine divisions on either side had their inner flanks exposed.

Interactive map · select a place, or play the phases

Saipan and Tinian, June–August 1944

American movementJapanese movementPlace — select for detailsOn a phone, swipe the map sideways. Modern coastlines © OpenStreetMap contributors (ODbL), via geo-maps. Beach and place positions are approximate; routes are schematic.

Death Valley

The 27th Division’s attack on the morning of 23 June went badly from the start. The regiments were late reaching the line of departure. Japanese machine guns and mortars in caves along the cliffs of Tapotchau on the left and on the hills to the right, which the soldiers named Purple Heart Ridge, swept the open valley. Tanks that tried to advance were knocked out. By nightfall the division had made almost no progress.

The fighting in what the soldiers called Death Valley went on for a week. Infantry battalions attacked again and again into the valley and up the ridges, taking heavy casualties for small gains. Only at the end of June, after the Marines had taken the heights on both flanks and the Army had worked its way along Purple Heart Ridge and through Hell’s Pocket at the south end of the valley, was the area cleared.

Infantrymen of the Army's 27th Infantry Division outside Garapan, 3 July 1944.
Infantrymen of the Army’s 27th Infantry Division outside Garapan, 3 July 1944.Photo: US Army Signal Corps · CC0 · Wikimedia Commons

Smith versus Smith

Holland Smith had little confidence in the 27th Division, a former New York National Guard formation. He blamed it for slow progress at Makin in November 1943 and now on Saipan. On 24 June, with the approval of Turner and Spruance, he relieved its commander, Major General Ralph C. Smith, and replaced him temporarily with Major General Sanderford Jarman; Major General George Griner took command a few days later.

The relief of an Army division commander by a Marine general caused an uproar. An Army board of inquiry under Lieutenant General Simon Buckner concluded that Holland Smith had been within his authority but had acted without full knowledge of the conditions the division faced. The dispute spread to the press, with Time and Life taking the Marine side and the Hearst newspapers the Army’s, and it soured relations between the services for the rest of the war. Historians have since judged that both the division and its critics had a case: the 27th Division made real mistakes, but it was also given the hardest ground on the island and too little time to prepare.

Mount Tapotchau

On the left, the 2nd Marine Division fought its way up the western and southern approaches to Mount Tapotchau, the 1,554-foot peak that dominated the island. The 8th Marines advanced through dense brush and up sheer slopes, with the Japanese defending every ridge. On 25 June Marines of the 8th Marines and an attached battalion of the 29th Marines reached the summit, and from it the Marines could look down on the whole of northern Saipan. The Japanese line across the middle of the island was broken.

Gallery · 6 photographs · select to enlarge

The fight for the interior

Four Marines of the 4th Marine Division take cover behind trees while mopping up Japanese in a cane field, 29 June 1944. Mount Tapotchau is in the background.
Four Marines of the 4th Marine Division take cover behind trees while mopping up Japanese in a cane field, 29 June 1944. Mount Tapotchau is in the background.Photo: National Archives 176250510 official USMC photo 127-N-85677 by Cooke · Public domain · Wikimedia Commons
Marines of the 4th Marine Division advance on a Japanese-held cave on Saipan, June 1944.
Marines of the 4th Marine Division advance on a Japanese-held cave on Saipan, June 1944.Photo: National Archives 176250516 official USMC photo 127-N-88894 by Cooke · Public domain · Wikimedia Commons
Marines advance through rugged terrain on the Saipan front lines, June 1944. The ridges, ravines and caves of the island's centre favoured the defender.
Marines advance through rugged terrain on the Saipan front lines, June 1944. The ridges, ravines and caves of the island’s centre favoured the defender.Photo: Sergeant John Fabian, USMC · Public domain · Wikimedia Commons
Marines check food and ammunition stored in one of Saipan's many caves. The limestone caves served the Japanese as storerooms, hospitals and fortresses.
Marines check food and ammunition stored in one of Saipan’s many caves. The limestone caves served the Japanese as storerooms, hospitals and fortresses.Photo: USMC Archives from Quantico, USA · CC BY 2.0 · Wikimedia Commons
Navy Chaplain O. David Herrmann of Omaha uses a destroyed Japanese tank as an altar for a service for the dead on Saipan, 24 June 1944.
Navy Chaplain O. David Herrmann of Omaha uses a destroyed Japanese tank as an altar for a service for the dead on Saipan, 24 June 1944.Photo: USMC Archives from Quantico, USA · CC BY 2.0 · Wikimedia Commons
Marine PFC Cecil G. Trosip, a code talker from Oraibi, Arizona, at a communications set on Saipan, 2 July 1944.
Marine PFC Cecil G. Trosip, a code talker from Oraibi, Arizona, at a communications set on Saipan, 2 July 1944.Photo: National Archives 176250518 official USMC photo 127-N-89670 by SGT Williams · Public domain · Wikimedia Commons

Garapan

Along the west coast, the 2nd and 6th Marines pushed north into Garapan, Saipan’s main town, which had been reduced to rubble by bombardment. The town was cleared in early July, and the Marines went on to take the seaplane base and harbor at Tanapag. Saito’s headquarters moved north from cave to cave as the line contracted. By 6 July the Japanese held only the northern tip of the island.

Marines enter the ruins of Garapan, the largest town in the Marianas, on the alert for snipers in the debris. Some buildings are still smouldering after the bombardment. Early July 1944.
Marines enter the ruins of Garapan, the largest town in the Marianas, on the alert for snipers in the debris. Some buildings are still smouldering after the bombardment. Early July 1944.Photo: Signal Corps Archive from Ireland and United States · Public domain · Wikimedia Commons

Caves and civilians

Saipan’s limestone was honeycombed with caves, and the Japanese used them for gun positions, command posts, hospitals and shelters. Marines and soldiers cleared them with flamethrowers, demolition charges and grenades, often after calls to surrender had been refused. Many caves also held civilians: Japanese, Okinawan, Korean and Chamorro families who had fled the fighting. Interpreters and Japanese-speaking servicemen tried to persuade them to come out.

Private First Class Guy Gabaldon, a Marine from Los Angeles who had learned Japanese from a Japanese American family, went out alone on many occasions and talked soldiers and civilians into surrendering. He was credited with bringing in more than a thousand people and received the Navy Cross. Thousands of civilians were collected in an internment camp at Susupe, near the landing beaches, where they were given food and medical care. Many others, frightened by Japanese propaganda about American treatment of prisoners, would not come out. Their fate in the last days of the battle is told in Chapter 5.

First Lieutenant Robert B. Sheeks, a 2nd Marine Division intelligence and Japanese-language officer, talks a mother and her children into leaving a hillside cave on Saipan, June 1944.
First Lieutenant Robert B. Sheeks, a 2nd Marine Division intelligence and Japanese-language officer, talks a mother and her children into leaving a hillside cave on Saipan, June 1944.Photo: Corporal Angus Robertson · Public domain · Wikimedia Commons

Gallery · 5 photographs · select to enlarge

Garapan and the drive north

A 4th Marine Division patrol in a burned-out cane field on Saipan listens as its squad leader reads the news from the Marines' mimeographed daily newspaper, 29 June 1944.
A 4th Marine Division patrol in a burned-out cane field on Saipan listens as its squad leader reads the news from the Marines’ mimeographed daily newspaper, 29 June 1944.Photo: National Archives 176250512 official USMC photo 127-N-85680 by Cooke · Public domain · Wikimedia Commons
Marine infantrymen move fast to new positions in Garapan, where buildings had been set afire by artillery, 3 July 1944.
Marine infantrymen move fast to new positions in Garapan, where buildings had been set afire by artillery, 3 July 1944.Photo: USMC Archives · Public domain · Wikimedia Commons
A Marine bazooka team in the ruins of Garapan, Saipan, July 1944.
A Marine bazooka team in the ruins of Garapan, Saipan, July 1944.Photo: Signal Corps Archive from Ireland and United States · Public domain · Wikimedia Commons
Seen through the window of a wrecked building, a Marine gun crew behind an abandoned Japanese truck fires at Japanese soldiers hidden in the debris of Garapan.
Seen through the window of a wrecked building, a Marine gun crew behind an abandoned Japanese truck fires at Japanese soldiers hidden in the debris of Garapan.Photo: Signal Corps Archive from Ireland and United States · Public domain · Wikimedia Commons
Marines use a local ox and cart to haul ammunition to an artillery position on Saipan, June 1944.
Marines use a local ox and cart to haul ammunition to an artillery position on Saipan, June 1944.Photo: Signal Corps Archive from United States · Public domain · Wikimedia Commons

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